Sea Otter 2009: Bebop Pedals

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In my rush to get this up earlier today, I forgot to mention that the much lighter Tim “Scissors” rode the BEBOP pedals. Here are Scissor’s thoughts:

You know what I like about quality pedals? Not thinking about them. I just wanna clip in and ride. Sea Otter 2009 introduced us to BEBOP, one of the lesser known brands of pedals but interestingly enough they have used by riders winning multiple NORBA and Triathlon championships. Currently Iā€™m riding Old Candy one Ti Pedals and until recently I have not given them much thought. Cruising around Sea Otter we come across the BEBOP booth and then suddenly I start thinking about my pedals.

Cromoly Spindle

The BEBOP pedal design is a universal design meant to be used by MTN Bike riders and road riders alike. It is a very simplistic design weighing in at 210 grams a pair for cromoly and 195 grams a pair for stainless, a Ti version is available as well said to weigh around 150 grams. They come with needle ball cartridge bearings and heat treated spindles. They guys at BEBOP set me up on stationary bike with pedals installed and some 661 Mtn Bike shoes with cleats already installed. The first thing I noticed was the entry into the pedal, you press straight down unlike what I am used to, toe first and then rock backwards. Once in the pedal cleat fit felt very firm and secure, no problems there. To exit the pedals, you turn your foot 15 degrees outward or 5 degrees inward. Overall the pedals were easy to use and felt secure. Getting used to the entry system will come with use and Iā€™m pretty sure I would use it as an excuse to ride more which is what we all need to do, right?

7 thoughts on “Sea Otter 2009: Bebop Pedals

  1. Jeremy, no offense, but you shouldn’t be riding Ti pedal spindles. You’re a big guy, and I’ve heard way too many horror stories about big folks riding Ti spindles that snapped at very inopportune moments. Check the weight limits for the Candys, and definitely for the ultralight Bebops.

  2. I’ve used Bebops for many years. I jumped on the hype of their pedals being light, which was awesome. But a couple of things… they are not that great in shedding mud, you’ll have a hard time trying to clip in.

    Also you’ll need to constantly lube the platform/cleat (attached to your shoe)after awhile the metal to metal friction, you’ll lose the 20degree float šŸ™

    I had these on my Rigid SS but shortly changed back to eggbeaters.

    GR – I’ve heard of this Ti issue and weight. I have two C.Bros that are Ti spindle. Raced Super D w/one of them… so far so good šŸ™‚

  3. I just checked on the Crank Brothers site…the Candy 2Ti has no rider weight limit and the 4Ti has 185 lb. rider limit…so, you boys might be off the hook for that. Still, that’s one place (pedal spindles) I wouldn’t be particularly concerned about saving weight — extra toughness trumps light weight in that area. Perhaps I value my “family jewels” more?

  4. I’ve used Bebop pedals since around ’98. I’m still riding on the same pair of cro-moly pedals. I’m 6’8″ and I weigh over 300lbs. I have cracked cranks, bent bottom brackets, and destroyed many parts on my bikes due to the wattage I can kick out with a 100cm inseam. The Bebops are still goin’ strong…

  5. I’ve been using Bebop cro-moly’s on my road bike for 8 years, fantasticly easy in-out, similar in concept to Speedplay Frogs with a reverse system of cleat and pedal setup. Love the light wight and minimal leg shredding when/if you break out of em and rake your leg. I agree with Joe about the metal to metal on the cleat, I just dab a drop of 3-in-1 oil in the shoes every month or two keeps things working

  6. Been using stainless Bebops for a year on my road bike, float is terrific for knee damaged in car crash and small amount of maintenance oiling cleats is no chore.

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